Cleaning pavers is straightforward, but the wrong method causes real damage — stripped joint sand, etched surfaces and voided warranties. Here is how to do it properly.
Start with the least aggressive method
Work up the ladder, not down. Most cleaning jobs are solved at step one or two.
- Sweep. Remove all loose debris first. Cleaning over grit grinds it into the surface.
- Rinse with a garden hose. A surprising amount of surface film comes off with plain water and a stiff broom.
- Mild detergent and a stiff-bristle brush. For general grime, this is usually enough.
- A dedicated paver cleaner. Only when the above has not worked, and always matched to the stain type.
- Pressure washing. Last resort, and with real technique — see below.
Pressure washing without wrecking the surface
This is where most damage happens. If you pressure wash:
- Use a wide fan tip (40°). Never a turbo, rotary or pencil tip — they will etch the paver face and cut the joints out.
- Keep your distance. Start well back and only move closer if needed. Watch the surface, not the dirt.
- Keep the wand moving at a consistent angle and distance so you do not leave cleaning stripes.
- Plan to re-sand. Assume you will need to replace joint sand afterward. Joint sand is structural — leaving joints open compromises interlock.
Note that damage caused by incorrect pressure washing is excluded from our warranty, and from most manufacturers'. If you are unsure, this is a good job to hand off.
Specific stains
Moss and algae — the Pacific Northwest special
Our wet, shaded conditions make this the most common complaint. Use a cleaner formulated for moss and algae, let it dwell per the label, then brush and rinse. Improving light and airflow, and keeping debris off the surface, slows regrowth more than any cleaner does.
Oil and grease
Act fast. Blot fresh oil — do not spread it. Then use a degreaser or a poultice-type cleaner made for masonry, which pulls the oil out of the paver rather than pushing it deeper. Old, set oil stains may not come out completely; on a paver surface, replacing the affected units is a real option.
Rust
Usually from patio furniture feet or fertilizer. Use a rust-specific masonry cleaner. Avoid generic acid washes — they can bleach the pigment and permanently lighten the surface.
Efflorescence
The white haze that appears on new pavers is efflorescence — natural salts migrating to the surface as the units cure. It usually weathers off on its own within the first year. If you want it gone sooner, use an efflorescence-specific cleaner. Do not attack it with acid.
Leaf and tannin staining
Common under big-leaf maples and conifers. A general-purpose paver cleaner and a stiff brush handles most of it if you get to it before it sets over a full wet season.
After cleaning
- Let the surface dry fully — at least 24 hours, longer in cool damp weather.
- Re-sand the joints if any sand was lost. This is not optional.
- Consider sealing if you want the color deepened and future cleaning made easier. Seal only over a fully dry, fully cured, clean surface.
Prefer to have it done for you? Our sister company Western Paver Restoration cleans, re-sands and seals pavers across the Portland metro.
What not to do
- Do not use household bleach or muriatic acid as a general cleaner — both can discolor pigment permanently.
- Do not use a metal-bristle brush, which leaves rust flecks that stain later.
- Do not seal over a damp surface, which traps moisture and clouds the finish.
- Do not clean in direct hot sun, which dries the cleaner before it can work.
If it is beyond a clean
Sometimes the issue is not dirt. Settling, persistent standing water, joints that will not hold sand, or units that rock underfoot are base and drainage problems, and cleaning will not fix them.
We are happy to take a look — including on work we did not install. Contact us for a free assessment anywhere in the Portland metro.
